The exclusive luxury silk scarves are inspired from the Commedia dell'Arte collection which showcased at the Houses of Parliament in London, the Oxford Fashion Week and The Catwalk Edit for the London Fashion Week 2015. The collection has received positive press reviews and has been published in a variety of magazines and on-line platforms, including Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.
The creative direction is inspired from Picasso's cubist paintings of stage performers, including the “Arlecchino” from the Italian Commedia dell'Arte. It expresses an artistic interpretation of cubism on a moving body, and delivers an innovative take on fabrics, colors and silhouettes.
The Graduate Fashion Week event was held at the Truman Brewery in London this year. For the first time, graduates had a new colossal venue set up in a trendier part of the city to showcase their final collections.
Diamond pleated dress
Cubist Installation Dress
Mirror cape jacket and culottes
Printed vinyl and silk dress
Multi faceted coat
My graduate collection is a cubist interpretation of the “Arlecchino” from the Italian Commedia dell'arte. For further research, I have used Picasso’s aesthetics and have been inspired by his many paintings of the harlequin performing on stage.
For my six final outfits I have experimented with the playful and geometric side of Cubism, and incorporated the bold sharpness into the silhouette of the garments. “The three musicians” artwork by Picasso was particularly inspirational since it provided me with the starting point for the construction of the garments, which, just like Cubism, provides many things to see from different angles. I have added ‘frames’ and stiff accordion/pleated appliqués which give a different look to the dress when standing, walking, from front view, side and back; a cubist creation on a body.
I have used fabric manipulation techniques to be able to create 3D surface design through large pleated appliqués. I have bonded silk, wool and even vinyl together, then pleated the new fabric according to my research to create a textured and multi faceted effect on my garments. For the silhouette I have incorporated external pieces of fabric which act as a stage (the harlequin’s stage for performance) or a frame for the entire garment, and when worn create double faced and raw edged constructive drapes. The overall mood of my collection is happy, bright, color blocked and geometric, with the occasional structural drapes giving an elegant edge as well.
The act of moving around an object to seize it from several successive angles fused into a single image ('multiple viewpoints' ), is a hallmark trait for the Cubist style. My garments are innovatively constructed to create the same effect of ‘mobile perspective’ through the fabric and silhouette manipulations. The movement of the body is an essential part of the final result, where the garments themselves become Cubist art installations, while at the same time being routed in a contemporary awareness of fashion.
Photo by Jason Hughes for UCA Epsom
Photo by GFW team
DITAT DEUS means GOD GIVES (Latin), as the conceptual collection is inspired from the gilded and embellished Orthodox icons. The design process involved silhouette development, laser cutting on perspex and digital printing.
Project inspired from Iris Apfel's personal style and interior design, as well as further inspiration from the robes of the Buddhist monks. Contemporary aesthetic expressed through the innovative draping and combination of unusual fabrics.